What an incredible vintage 2016 has been. Here we are in a cool climate Beechworth yet everything is off before the end of summer. Shiraz, Sangiovese and Nebbiolo all picked in the same week – quite unthinkable yet the flavours seem really, really good with fantastic beguiling aromas; time will tell.
Another heavenly day for Open Day. This time of year shows Beechworth at its very best. Why would you be anywhere else? It’s really lovely to have so many of our long-time customers all together. I guess Open Day has become a bit of a tradition as it is now in its 5th year. Here are a few photographs as a memory of the day.
Some thoughts on drinking well – Over the last months I have been looking at a lot of wine, some only available in our local market, but much destined for the Chinese market, and what I saw, to say the least, was disappointing even perhaps a bit alarming. I believe that China has the potential to become our most important market and I hope we are not taking that market for granted and selling them indifferent wine at inflated prices. Wines at all price points should have their own personality. Too much of what I have tasted recently Continue reading
With the passing of the years, the vines are changing from being producers of youthful, vibrant fruit to ones that deliver more brooding, moody, nervous fruit. It is as if they have given up their years of childhood frivolity and have taken on the angst of teenagers; more aware of the complexity of life yet not fully evolved to deal with the twists and turns that can so quickly beset them. Not fully mature, but nevertheless, full of Continue reading
Our recent release of mostly the 2010 vintage wines has been reviewed by three of our most respected wine commentators, Campbell Mattinson publisher of Wine Front and editor of the James Halliday’s Wine Companion magazine; Nick StockPhilip White of the Indaily Adelaide and drinkster.blogspot.com, surely Australia’s most literate wine commentator. I thought it would be interesting to compile the three reviewer work, listing each review, of each of the wines one after another, so you can compare – different yet the same; if you’re interested in our wines it makes fascinating reading.
The wines are available on our website at www.castagna.com.au or you can call us and we will email or fax you an Order Form or Price List.
Castagna 2010 Genesis Syrah
A deeply complex, ripe and compelling nose of granite dust, plum, blackberry, pepper and baking spices, this is a wine that has terrific allure in the glass; fragrant and enticing. The palate is beautifully balanced and texture is driven by fine sheets of ripe tannins that carry black granitic mineral flavour, dark cherry and a vast array of spices, dark chocolate, and dark plum and cherry stone freshness to close. Thrilling wine.
Nick Stock The SMH and Age Good Wine Guide 2013 96 Points
This is less exuberant than previous releases; more reserved. It’s like there’s an inner confidence at play here; like the wines know they’re good, and don’t feel the need to say it so loudly. There’s still the violetty, spicy, aniseedy perfume. Part of this was matured in a concrete egg, so essentially less of the wine has seen oak (slightly). This has a sinewy character that I’ve not seen in Genesis before. Buoyant but not voluptuous. A little more strictness. Castagna’s reds have always been so sexy; there’s a button or two extra been left buttoned here. Long, spicy, meaty finish.
Campbell Mattinson Wine front 95 Points
Make a pie of whole berries of blackcurrant and blueberry, with a few junipers thrown in. Sneak some really peppery watercress in there somehow: maybe layer the bottom pastry with it before you spread the fruit on there – the pepper in this wine is watercress pepper, not peppercorn pepper. It has some anise, some licorice, some smote granite, some trippy petrichor, and the whole thing about this wine is the adventure, anyway, not the flavour. It’s science fiction, with much ozone oozing bluely from simmering electric connections. Like nuclear fuel rods glowering in the cooling brine. After it’s prickled and twitched your nostrils right up past the Jacobsen’s Organ, it goes kinda velvety and says everything’s all right. Don’t believe a word of it. You’re suckered. The Alien lives within you now.
Philip White Indaily Adelaide & drinkster.blogspot.com 94++ Points
Castagna 2010 La Chiave Sangiovese
This is Australia’s best Sangiovese. Ever. It is precise, brilliant and intense. That’s not saying a lot, but it makes my forehead fall to a supportive palm, while my breathe spills its marvels all over my desk. I have never exhaled a more satisfactory miasma born of the blood of St Jove. Which means the chiave, the lock, the latch, is open. Which makes me think of Chios, the Ægean island famous over the millennia for its wine. Not to mention the Teacher’s Chair of Homer. A liquor of sublime elegance, demeanour and poise. No further message.
Philip White Indaily Adelaide & drinkster.blogspot.com 95+++ Points
Australia’s best sangiovese – I’d argue.
This release is a wine of delicate power. Delicate flavour, torrid tannin, yet it all somehow melts together. Dark cherry, toast, rose petals, spice. Whisper of eucalypt. Clever smoky oak. This is a super wine. It sounds like a funny thing to say but you can tell, with the 2010 Castagna reds, that with this year the long drought had broken. The wines are calmer. Their natural sexiness seems more sophisticated; more at ease.
Campbell Mattinson Wine front 94+ Points
An estate-grown sangiovese that offers a very complex nose: bright-red fruits, meaty game and spice, a dusting of fine, crushed granite minerals; it changes rapidly in the glass so decant or cellar for the best results. The palate is built on bright and ripe cherry fruit flavour, and it delivers a wealth of fine, mid-palate tannin that adds a musky edge to the bright, pristine fruit here, lovely and open yet assertive tannins, gentle build, really flows, and great balance to close.
Nick Stock The SMH and Age Good Wine Guide 2013 94 Points
Castagna 2010 Un Segreto
One of the pointiest wines I’ve smelt in recent aeons, this is a new thing. Nobody’s done this so well and jumpingly before, and if they did, it’d probably be by genetic modification and a failure. But this has been grown outa the granite and sandstone ground from two sorts of right royal grape vine types, Sangiovese and Shiraz. It is alive, like carbon is alive when it’s on the paws of a giant Black Panther who is pacing on account of the inconvenience of the cage. The edgy reek of its sweat, which is white and salty on its muscular blackness. Back and forth, back and forth, up and down. The Juniper berry’s here again, but it’s really as much the smell of the bark of its tree on the heath there all the way from London down to the gin factory at Plymouth. Cat-scratching music, please. With some well-polished tack riding past. You can let it out to feed forever on the vast veldt of your sensories. In other words, Black Panther (cat not cat) stalks girls on horses, and boys who sometimes think them gals look good. You all deserve it. Stunning.
Philip White Indaily Adelaide & drinkster.blogspot.com 96+++ Points
This sangiovese and shiraz blend has a beautifully entrancing, fragrant nose of bright-red floral perfume, ripe red and blue fruits, dark-brown spices and granitic, rocky minerals – very complex and nicely integrated. The palate is laid out on fine tannins and shows a bright and even shape that offers a sleeve-like, composed dark berry fruit core, moving sleek and long. Holds the finish with impressive poise and leaves an elegant impression.
Nick Stock The SMH and Age Good Wine Guide 2013 96 points.
Castagna 2008 Sparkling Genesis
Castagna’s sparkling red is arguably now the Australian champion of the style. It’s certainly the most compelling. This one spent two years on lees and was disgorged in October 2011. It smells amazing. This will be a great wine, given time. For now it tastes of jubes, fistfuls of spice, raisins, tea and toast and earth. It has oodles of sweet blue- and black-berried fruit flavour but it remains dry and focussed. By Australian standards bugger-all dosage has gone into this wine, and its dryness is compellingly apparent. You have to have the fruit quality to pull off such a style of course – sweetness is at heart a masking agent – and this wine has fruit quality to burn. It will develop magnificently.
Campbell Mattinson Wine front 96 Points
The tiny bubbles and absolutely minimal liqueuring have softened some of the 08’s angular bits, but put a little more sharp into others. The aniseed, blueberry and juniper are all here chugging, the jujubes have taken on a St Elmo’s Fire halo, and the nightshade and tea leaves seem to have been replaced by a thin layer of coal dust, but overall, the similarity with the wine with 100% fewer cavities is reassuring. This is very dry for red fizz. It works that same old teetering see-saw of soothing and excitement, and keeps the sensories alert and entertained. As the thunderstorm breeze whizzed across the table, each sniff or sip drew out another contrast or complement, just as the vineyard changes aroma constantly with wind direction and airborne water. Blueberries at the bottom.
Philip White Indaily Adelaide & drinkster.blogspot.com 95+++ Points
Castagna 2009 Sparkling Allegro
A wine that teases is most often a wine that pleases. This salacious pink fizz teases from the very notion that it’s made from bio-dynamic Shiraz, all the way down to its last merry life-giving bubble. It does a tantalising see-saw all the way through, first offering brazen maraschino cherry, then the waft of the summer grasses and granite dust of its source on a rocky rise near Beechworth, then back again. Fru-fru and granite. Granite being very lightly radio-active, I like the tease of that, too: the damn thing really does make one glow. It’s as dry as crushed bone china, but that bright cherry fruit persists with its viscous illusion of sweetness. Up and down, in and out, on and off – the edge of excitement it provides will add a humorous rosé-glassed hue to whatever social precariousness your Exmess lunch can offer. As your second glass runs in, the space between those fruit and country extremes diminishes, the troughs and crests grow close and viscous as the wave-line smooths out and you’re sitting back there with a foolish bemused grin. This is not anything like Champagne. It is a brash, hearty, vivacious wine unique to one tiny patch of Australia. All that big-mouth froth aside, this Sparkling Allegro puts a solid gold seal on my confidence that Castagna would be my Australian winery of the year.
Philip White Indaily Adelaide & drinkster.blogspot.com 95 Points
Daringly dry. So much crushed herb and spice. So textural and creamy yet chalky and dry too. Earthen. Pippy cherries. Not fruity, and yet powerful, full-bodied. Wonderful style of food wine. Crying out for salami and bread. A thoroughly individual wine.
Campbell Mattinson Wine front 93 Points
A three-year rest on lees for this pale rose has delivered a fresh and complex result that smells of ripe dried red berries and background yeasty, bready complexity, some gentle, rose-like fragrance here too. The palate has terrific weight and depth; it’s rich and creamy, there’s unmistakable phenolic traction adding length and shape, and flavours of wild red berry fruits and savoury yeast run deep into the dry, assertive finish. A distinctive style that beckons for the dining table.
Nick Stock The SMH and Age Good Wine Guide 2013 93 /100
Castagna 2010 Ingénue
As tight as a kettle drum, this wine of Julian Castagna is as drawn and taut as it is suave and elegant. It’s wired as well as sprung, immediately more acrid and sharp: almost brittle. It prickles the nostrils. I found myself thinking of the smell of Sir Arthur Streeton’s Fire’s On – Lapstone Tunnel 1891 and finally realized that the piquant sandstone country around Castagna is pretty much the country that young Arthur painted as the navvies and powdermonkeys drove a train line through the mountains just the other side of the border and up a bit. Fortunately, they didn’t have to go through the granite also resident at Beechworth. With this wine, the air within my glass smelled the same as the air without. Then, once again, beside the dust and the sunbleached hay, that sweet fleshy grass insinuated itself, this time as cool and cucumbery as Issye Miyake. By Bacchus, it’s a beautiful drink. Those triple-x phenolics dance round in the acid like William Burroughs does when he takes off his skin for his bone dance, and yet there’s still that swoony, comforting, luxurious ?ubrówka flesh. Peking duck.
Philip White Indaily Adelaide & drinkster.blogspot.com 95+++ points
It’s easy to put a high price on a wine but it can be excruciatingly difficult to back it up with real quality. This wine does. Look, it’s just a fascinating wine. It’s far easier to swoon over than it is to describe it. Hay, dried grains, squeezed ginger, juicy melons, apples maybe. Sounds a bit sexual and that’s the way it tastes. Heady but compelling. Mouthfeel at every turn. Spicy, rocky, prickly exit. Super.
Campbell Mattinson Wine front 94 Points
This viognier has a lovely floral side, fragrant wild flowers, some mealy barrel fermentation notes, nougat and sourdough bread; really complex wine here. The palate has terrific texture and richness that delivers a savoury layer of nutty flavour across a melon and peach core, lovely acidity and grip through the finish, sweetly spiced and very concentrated.
Nick Stock The SMH and Age Good Wine Guide 2013 93/100
Adam’s Rib The White 2010
More chardonnay than viognier this release. Spicy, lively, intense. Great power and great floral/gingery flourish. Creamy mouthfeel. Bright. Has interest at every turn. Not sure why we don’t pay wines like this more attention. Super release from Adam’s Rib. Linger of exotic flavour:
Campbell Mattinson Wine front 92 Points
Both makers will probably dislike me saying this, but in style this is so far out there the only other horse in the race is Johnny Gilbert’s forthcoming By Jingo Grillo.
It’s about nothing smelling much like what everybody thinks grapes smell like, and letting the wine run off with its own flavour. Like it smells like wine, not grapes. Both those whites are big mature profound babies as thickset as the girls in Rubens’ room in the Louvre. This one’s got her face in a bowl of broad beans in butter and garlic. She’s just let it have another blast of pepper grinder, a grinder which doesn’t have a friggin torch in it. This is candle-light wine. Somebody’s stewing jam melon in the corner. Woodstove business. Pears, too, but creamier and more buttery than any pear I’ve yet pillaged. But it’s no dessert wine. This is cassoulet wine. Everybody’s laughing! Oyster omelette wine. Wah Hing salt’n’pepper eggplant wine. Pig belly wine. Park Lok pig tripe in chicken stock with onion, mustard seed and white pepper wine. I just drank a whole bottle thinking that up. Oh yes. It’s Chardonnay and Viognier, and don’t you worry about that. Radical blanc for hardcore sensual rouge revvos.
Philip White Indaily Adelaide & drinkster.blogspot.com 94 Points
Adam’s Rib 2010 Beechworth Chardonnay
Grown on the Smith’s vineyard, the oldest chardonnay vineyard in the Beechworth region. The first varietal chardonnay under the Adam’s Rib name. Barrel fermented.
Takes some time to open up in the glass; benefits from a decant. Grapefruit and melon and almond. Touch of toasty oak. Spent time on skins and it shows in the wine’s skin-like texture. Lacks aroma but lingers deliciously on the finish. Glycerol. Will be better again in 12 months but if you’re opening now, give it some time to come around.
Campbell Mattinson Wine front 89+ Points
Adam’s Rib 2010 The Red
Nebbiolo and Shiraz. Granite. Clean Beechworth air. Wild yeast. Approachable. That’s what it tells me on the outside. On the inside, add the triple-X rating. It’s like the fruit section of a bacchanale in the final movement. The jellied fruit wrestling. Where all is ripe and red and rude, and we’re rubbing it on each other in the bath. It smells deep and yearning and it wants you in there with it. The edge of it is pure smashed granite that sets the nostrils twitchin’ and itchin’. That’s just a carapace, a front, to protect and hide the rich soft within. There’s glowering, prickly anise, too. Drink. That stone-dust edge is in the palate like a vividly coloured exotic reptile skin designed, too, for protection. Which is what it will do, keeping the fruit department preserved and fresh for a long time while it scares everything else away. This has to do with Nebbiolo tannins in a great year, but it’s not much like you’d expect of either of its components. They writhe so well together you can’t pick them. There’s also really sinuous acid, which will help with the preservation. But hang on, that’s a raspberry. A pretty raspberry gel. That’s the leader. Behind that there’s a stack of much darker blackcurrant and rude blue gunbarrel fig. But that’s just because I think like that. Rub it all over me so I forget. Beautiful, elegant, intense, joyous wine for participation. As the label says. “Approachable.” Really.
Philip White Indaily Adelaide & drinkster.blogspot.com 93+ Points
“Julian Castagna is one of eight nominees for the very prestigious Gourmet Traveller Wine winemaker of the year award.”
As I travel around the world attending various bio-dynamic conferences and tastings, I am constantly amazed by the reception our wines are accorded. Amazed, not because they like the wines, why wouldn’t they, but totally amazed and saddened by the perception held by many people who think Australia is incapable of making anything other than non-gastronomic, sweet, high-alcohol wine. Amazed, also, because Continue reading